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Archive for January, 2011|Monthly archive page

Jean-Paul Gaultier

In Designer on January 31, 2011 at 12:01 PM

Jean Paul Gaultier presented a highly-stylized Couture presentation for Spring 11. jagged faux hawks, or “mohikans”, black and red lips, narrow sunglasses. Swag-influenced models made their way down the runway and off stage, while nodding to fashion shows of old when models carried look numbers down the runway while an announcer introduced each look in French and then English.

:: collection.

the collection itself was heavy and hard, parisian “punk couture” meets can-can. although deep in black and metal, it didn’t stray too far away from being called girly either: tulle was abundant, as was just the right amount of skin and red.

:: details.

:: designer Jean Paul Gaultier. images via style.com.

 

watch the runway video here.

Elie Saab

In Designer on January 28, 2011 at 9:14 PM

Elie Saab’s Couture collection teased with delicate looks of organza and pale pinks and slowly transitioned into seductive gowns in red and black. the off the shoulder collar bone bearing gowns with tiny waists and floor sweeping organza layers that finished out the collection make Saab’s a contender for my favorite collection.

stylists will be clamoring for these looks, can’t wait to see who wears them and who wears them well.

:: collection.

:: details.

:: designer Elie Saab. images via style.com.

Chanel Couture

In Designer, Paris on January 28, 2011 at 3:20 PM

Lagerfeld’s Couture presentation for Spring 2011 was a collection on whites and ethereal luminous fabrics, as well as denim and flats.  embroidery used instead of fabric, thin, delicate metallic thread and beads, sequin leggings, heavy in their glamour and yet light and clinging to the models tiny legs….

:: collection.

Lagerfeld has taken couture to a new place, where I’m not sure many will follow. but his bar may be too high. the light ballet flats seem to have take Couture to a lighter place, closer to walking on clouds then clunking through the crowd. couture has never been attainable yet so far away.

::details.

:: designer Karl Lagerfeld. images via style.com.

Christian Dior

In Designer on January 28, 2011 at 3:15 PM

Karlie Kloss opened John Galliano’s Dior Couture show with a flash of fire: crimson a line jacket over an organza calf length skirt, lips red as blood and high arched red eyebows. the attitude of this show was like no other, as Galliano is nothing if not a man who loves to put on a show.

:: collection.

 

taking cue from René Gruau, the illustrator who worked with Dior in the 40′s and 50′s, Galliano used his past works in the fabric of the collection, literally integrating his inspiration at every step.  Gruau’s watercolors, his lines, his curves.

:: illustration by René Gruau.

:: details.

:: designer John Galliano. images via style.com.

Givenchy

In Designer on January 28, 2011 at 2:46 PM

Ricardo Tisci’s Couture presentation moved the designer into a softer, more somber place. the collection was based on “the color of dried flowers” according to  style.com.

never one to shy away from detail, Tisci’s collection influence was Japan and the recent passing of dancer Kazuo Ohno, whose style Tisci so admired. small bursts of color brought attention to the back of each look, and  head-wear provided by Philip Treacy took cue from the robotic Japanese influence, creating a small distraction from the collection, which in true Tisci fashion took hours upon hours to complete by hand, every ornate piece a sign of the designers craft.

 

:: if you have never had the opportunity to touch a Givenchy piece, make every effort in your lifetime to. you will not be disappointed.

 

:: images via style.com.

Armani Prive

In Designer on January 28, 2011 at 2:28 PM

Giorgio Armani gave us a a futuristic-influenced Couture show for Armani Prive, making sure to provide what other shows did not : metallics in gemstone tones.

greens, pinks and deep blues made their way down the runway in strong shoulders and bright lips. with a strong emphasis on the hips Armani showed dresses, skirts and pantsuits with both protruding proportions or cut out chunks, exposing a skin-tight slice of fabric. the accessories were a collection of their own; small oddly shaped clutches, chunky wrist-stacked bracelets, massive cocktail rings and door-knocker earrings.

:: collection.

:: details.

:: designer Giorgio Armani. images via style.com.

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In Update on January 27, 2011 at 12:03 PM

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Men’s FW 2011

In Designer, F/W 2011 on January 26, 2011 at 1:04 PM

I don’t typically focus on ‘men’ on addicts collective, but the collections for next fall include far too many envious pieces that i couldn’t resist.

check out my top three looks for my favorite collections, alphabetically of course, below.

:: Adam Kimmel.

this menswear designer presented a collection on models that made it look like the clothes actually just grew from them, from their essence. hard, rugged, classic, preppy…somehow Kimmel managed to make a cohesive collection with all of these competing thoughts. he kept the bulk of the looks dark and deep, but orange and a burnt red crept up on jackets, pants and patches.

:: Alexander McQueen.

Sarah Burton gave us a clear look into what she sees as being menswear for fall: clean lines, detail, heavy fabric and structurally sound constructed jackets. her influences were across the board- military and romantic, infusing track pants and sleek leather boots. the colors were stark, invoking a cold october evening with just enough red and burnt yellow thrown in to keep the collection warm.

:: Balmain.

i could live in these looks. i can’t imagine how men will be able to resist the heavy wool jackets, knit scarves and overall aesthetic of this hearty collection. yes, I would describe it as hearty. everything about the styling for Decarnin’s fall collection is on point. the slouched skinny jeans, the socks and lace up boots. the models perfectly messy hair. so simple, but layered it becomes perfect.

:: Burberry Prorsum.

the fashion house’s Prorsum collection, meaning “forward”, is exactly that. while other designers test the waters and strike out on ground breaking looks, or fall flat on their faces trying, Christopher Bailey takes smaller steps which in turn keep the line ahead of its game. a steady stream of right. the fall collection was that, classic looks with a focus on  ”a coat for all seasons” (via style.com). he kept knits, skinny trousers and covetable bags as the accessories to the coats that work for the many faces of fall.

:: D&G.

Domenico and Stefano presented a collection that showcased looks in reference to the current look for menswear- voluminous vests of fur, sneakers, fitted shallow drop crotch pants and nylon jackets, and also looked back – keeping the collection generationally relevant with a play on Mickey Mouse and Coca Cola; but sleek. the collection was vibrant with hues of orange, yellow and blue blasting through classic olive corduroys and faded blue t-shirts.

:: DSquared.

you can almost picture Dean and Dan finding a hat at a flea market and saying “ahhh”.  the entire fall collection seemed to have evolved from the wide brimmed, tall hats that make their way down the runway with each of the 31 looks. underscored by the thick black frames, the hats played an integral part of the feel of the collection. splattered jeans, button downs, long wool jackets with leather sleeves and thick wrist cuffs completed the styling of the easy-to-wear collection. knit sweaters and un-porportional vests filled out the collection and then there was look, after look, after look of more of the same. not their best collection, but there will definitely be some pieces that will pull through and be splashed across editorials over and over again.

:: Maison Martin Margiela.

the fall collection was presented this year in what was expected to be the first actual  runway show in many seasons. guests were seated only to have the curtain roll back to reveal backstage. styling, de-linting and line-up were all witnessed by those who have seen it all. the 70′s influenced looks, with layers and fur, were made up of wearable pieces for the margiela fan base, although nothing heavily note worthy.

:: Mugler.

truly the most anticipated menswear show of the year, Nicola Formichetti’s emergence as Mugler’s creative director has been teased over for months. the video accompanying the collection (view it here) brought a rise over the desensitized fashion crowd. Formichetti’s model and muse, a canadian model named Rico with skeletal tattoo’s covering his entire body, rounded out the theme of the show. (Personally, I got a Dexter vibe from the looks- butchers apron, clear plastic, but I digress). a yet un-released Lady Gaga mix accompanied the video opening, while the models showed off ripped leather pants with knit knee’s, strong shoulders and fitted blazers. a heavy use of latex, neoprene, nylon and leather gave the entire collection a feel of expensive grunge.

:: Rick Owens.

I am always a Rick Owens fan, even when a collection comes out that I could never wear. strictly black, strictly rick, layers upon layers of heavy fabric, luxe texture and volume made this collection pure. the designer’s influence for fall came from a primal view-point, as Owens looked back at past cultures and the idea of “service, duty, protection”. warriors, samurai’s, fathers, men, all infleuced the collection in small ways- taking a cue from kilts and and robe, war attire and ceremonial garb. of course the designer kept his aesthetic, strictly making those view points a part of it.

:: Yohji Yamamoto. in what appears to be the best use of casting this season, Yamamoto truly took his collection to a place many don’t in a runway show- to his customers. from the overweight to the aged gentleman, he designer wanted everyone to feel this collection belonged to them.  over-sized suits, with rolled cuffs and extra buckles and sashes gave the collection a feel true to the designer.

i am in desperate need of the black knit sweater, half skeletal, half heart/apple? need.

:: images via style.com.

Mandy Coon

In Designer, Fashion on January 22, 2011 at 12:30 PM

in.love.

Mandy Coon, model/DJ/designer, recently caught my eye with her bold geometric designs and jump off the page styling and imagery and use of leather.  sold at assembly and opening ceremony in NYC and Colette in Paris, hers is a collection worst coveting.

:: Above, the designer/model in Interview Magazine.

Spring/Summer 11 look book images,below.


:: look book images via Mandy Coon.
Opening Ceremony interviewed designer recently :: check it out here.

Lindsey

In Advertising, Models on January 20, 2011 at 2:20 PM

how many ad campaigns can one baby faced, gap-toothed model land? for Linsey Wixson and Spring/Summer 11…5.

:: Jil Stuart, McQueen, Mulberry, Versace Fragrance…and she’s slated to star in future Marc Jacob’s yet unreleased ads.

:: Jil Stuart.:: Alexander McQueen.

:: Mulberry.

:: Versace Vanitas Fragrance.

What’s your favorite Lindsey ad? past or present? my vote goes to her Miu Miu Spring 2010 ads. <3

:: images via nymag and fashionising.

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