I don’t typically focus on ‘men’ on addicts collective, but the collections for next fall include far too many envious pieces that i couldn’t resist.
check out my top three looks for my favorite collections, alphabetically of course, below.
:: Adam Kimmel.
this menswear designer presented a collection on models that made it look like the clothes actually just grew from them, from their essence. hard, rugged, classic, preppy…somehow Kimmel managed to make a cohesive collection with all of these competing thoughts. he kept the bulk of the looks dark and deep, but orange and a burnt red crept up on jackets, pants and patches.
:: Alexander McQueen.
Sarah Burton gave us a clear look into what she sees as being menswear for fall: clean lines, detail, heavy fabric and structurally sound constructed jackets. her influences were across the board- military and romantic, infusing track pants and sleek leather boots. the colors were stark, invoking a cold october evening with just enough red and burnt yellow thrown in to keep the collection warm.
i could live in these looks. i can’t imagine how men will be able to resist the heavy wool jackets, knit scarves and overall aesthetic of this hearty collection. yes, I would describe it as hearty. everything about the styling for Decarnin’s fall collection is on point. the slouched skinny jeans, the socks and lace up boots. the models perfectly messy hair. so simple, but layered it becomes perfect.
:: Burberry Prorsum.
the fashion house’s Prorsum collection, meaning “forward”, is exactly that. while other designers test the waters and strike out on ground breaking looks, or fall flat on their faces trying, Christopher Bailey takes smaller steps which in turn keep the line ahead of its game. a steady stream of right. the fall collection was that, classic looks with a focus on ”a coat for all seasons” (via style.com). he kept knits, skinny trousers and covetable bags as the accessories to the coats that work for the many faces of fall.
Domenico and Stefano presented a collection that showcased looks in reference to the current look for menswear- voluminous vests of fur, sneakers, fitted shallow drop crotch pants and nylon jackets, and also looked back – keeping the collection generationally relevant with a play on Mickey Mouse and Coca Cola; but sleek. the collection was vibrant with hues of orange, yellow and blue blasting through classic olive corduroys and faded blue t-shirts.
you can almost picture Dean and Dan finding a hat at a flea market and saying “ahhh”. the entire fall collection seemed to have evolved from the wide brimmed, tall hats that make their way down the runway with each of the 31 looks. underscored by the thick black frames, the hats played an integral part of the feel of the collection. splattered jeans, button downs, long wool jackets with leather sleeves and thick wrist cuffs completed the styling of the easy-to-wear collection. knit sweaters and un-porportional vests filled out the collection and then there was look, after look, after look of more of the same. not their best collection, but there will definitely be some pieces that will pull through and be splashed across editorials over and over again.
:: Maison Martin Margiela.
the fall collection was presented this year in what was expected to be the first actual runway show in many seasons. guests were seated only to have the curtain roll back to reveal backstage. styling, de-linting and line-up were all witnessed by those who have seen it all. the 70′s influenced looks, with layers and fur, were made up of wearable pieces for the margiela fan base, although nothing heavily note worthy.
truly the most anticipated menswear show of the year, Nicola Formichetti’s emergence as Mugler’s creative director has been teased over for months. the video accompanying the collection (view it here) brought a rise over the desensitized fashion crowd. Formichetti’s model and muse, a canadian model named Rico with skeletal tattoo’s covering his entire body, rounded out the theme of the show. (Personally, I got a Dexter vibe from the looks- butchers apron, clear plastic, but I digress). a yet un-released Lady Gaga mix accompanied the video opening, while the models showed off ripped leather pants with knit knee’s, strong shoulders and fitted blazers. a heavy use of latex, neoprene, nylon and leather gave the entire collection a feel of expensive grunge.
:: Rick Owens.
I am always a Rick Owens fan, even when a collection comes out that I could never wear. strictly black, strictly rick, layers upon layers of heavy fabric, luxe texture and volume made this collection pure. the designer’s influence for fall came from a primal view-point, as Owens looked back at past cultures and the idea of “service, duty, protection”. warriors, samurai’s, fathers, men, all infleuced the collection in small ways- taking a cue from kilts and and robe, war attire and ceremonial garb. of course the designer kept his aesthetic, strictly making those view points a part of it.
:: Yohji Yamamoto. in what appears to be the best use of casting this season, Yamamoto truly took his collection to a place many don’t in a runway show- to his customers. from the overweight to the aged gentleman, he designer wanted everyone to feel this collection belonged to them. over-sized suits, with rolled cuffs and extra buckles and sashes gave the collection a feel true to the designer.
i am in desperate need of the black knit sweater, half skeletal, half heart/apple? need.
:: images via style.com.